Refitting the engine...

With the engine in the subframe ready for mounting, it is wise to ensure that all of the bolts are tight, as access becomes a lot more restricted when the engine is raised back into place.



With the weight taken on a jack at the back of the engine (as was removed), gently roll the engine under the back of the car, you may need to lower the engine slightly to ensure it can clear the back of the trid.



Roll the engine in until it is about 6-12 inches from the back of the bulkhead.
Ensure that no pipes/cables are caught as you roll in.



You need to be mindful of the aircon pipes, water pipes, engine wiring loom, ABS sensor wires, Brake lines, the fuel lines and the handbrake pin which will be protruding lower than the subframe at this stage.

Reconnect all pipes etc, then roll the engine back into position.
Whilst doing this you will need to carefully bend the handbrake pin over the edge of the subframe until it locates in its guide.
Reconnect the handbrake cable by pulling the pin down and sliding the cables into slots on the securing ring. (opposite of removal).





You can locate and start to take the weight of the engine by reattaching the main chassis bolts (E18).



Here we re-fitted our induction kit and ECU, but if this your car utilises the original airbox, this locates in the standard mounts on the chassis rail.
Remember to ensure that the battery is DISCONNECTED when reconnecting the ECU.

With the engine bay almost complete, reattach the exhaust and lambda sensors.



Top up the engine with fresh fluids.



Now it is time to test!, upon first turn we encountered no problems and engine fired and ran no problems.
(Click the picture for a video of the first start.)



The most common failure following a job like this will be something as simple as a sensor circuit failure, so if you have access to a comprehensive fault-code reader, it will be a big advantage.
Remember you will need to bleed the brakes, and the coolant system before normal use.