| Pod LED access |
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Remove the radio by using the removal clips. If you cannot find your clips any more, use alternative removal tools. Slide the radio out and disconnect the aerial, power and speaker connectors. Remove the radio from the car. If you have a trip computer, you need to free this by pushing the two clips as shown: Unplug the white ribbon cable from the right-hand side. Remove the safety triangle by lifting it up from the front and disconnecting the wiring. The pods secure to the dash with two T10 screws that need to be removed. The pods are held with four additional clips. Pulling the pods up vertically will free them from the car. Take the pod assembly out of the car to where you will be soldering. As the pods come free, unplug the red connectors from each pod. The main cable supplies the boost pod which is then linked across to the temperature pod underneath the base plate hence the need to disconnect them. With each pod free, remove the front bezel. Do this carefully as the clips are very brittle. Remove the two T6 screws either side of the face. The internals of the temperature pod should fall out of the enclosure quite easily. The boost may need some gentle persuasion. Remove the needles by twisting them firmly anticlockwise and pulling. Move the boost needle to the -1.0 position before doing this. The dial faces will simply lift off the spindle to reveal the LEDs on the PCB. When reassembling the pods, it is difficult to know where the correct pointer positions are, especially for the boost gauge. The optimum method is as follows:
Boost Gauge
Don't worry about lining the needles up with the zero positions before you put them in the car. When you switch the car on and off, they should both return to zero. |


























