Engine Removal...

First remove the rear panel see guide here: Guide

Remove the rear crash bar. Guide

Disconnect the battery.

Next detach the lambda sensor from the exhaust, if you have a Mk1 to Mk3 you wont have a second sensor.

Remove the exhaust, depending on your exhaust manufacturer there maybe different mounting points. Also remember to undo the lambda sensor arrowed in blue.
The exhaust mounts on the gear box need to be undone using an E12 bit, the turbo nuts require a 13mm spanner; the lambda sensor needs a 22mm spanner.

Slacken the Driveshaft bolts, but leave them in situ. You need to use the weight of the car on the ground with the handbrake on, to get enough force to slacken them off.

Remove the jubilee clips holding the TIK in place and disconnect the three pipes connected, they should pull off fairly easily although a screw driver may help removing the clipped pipe.

Be very careful when removing the small pipe on the rear as its small and quite brittle.

All that is holding the TIK to the car is the supporting bracket, undo the two small E bolts holding it to the top of the gearbox. (also has an earth cable on one of the bolts).

Now disconnect the airbox end of the TIK and pull it out slightly so it gives enough slack to remove it from the turbo inlet, it should now move fairly freely. Twist the unit around to access the bolts securing the TIK to the bracket being very careful not the break or crimp any pipes attached to the electronic device.

Remove the bolts so the TIK is now totally removed from the car.

To remove the intercooler pipes, undo the jubilee clips from the top pipe, there is one jubilee each end, one on the intercooler and the other at the throttle body.

Remove the other two clips holding the lower pipe on. One at the turbo, the other at the intercooler connection.

Pull both pipes clear of the car.

The engine wiring harness needs to be disconnected, unclip the ECU (remember to push the slide clips out before pulling on the wire!!)
Undo, the Oil pressure sender, show below (it’s a spade connector and rubber cap).

There is one branch from the ECU into the cabin, you need to pull up the carpet behind the passenger seat, and undo the connector with the red, blue and wires.
This then needs to be fed back through the rear bulkhead grommet.

Now Jack up the car, and mount some axle stands under the engine sub-frame, AND under the Tridion jacking points.

Pull the cable bracket down on the return spring (red arrows), pull the cables out of the guides at either side (blue arrows), then twist the bracket (green arrows) …. All with one hand!!

Whilst under there, it may be advantageous to drop the front floor pan (6 x 8mm bolts), and unplug the lateral g-force sensor the wire attached to this needs to we fed right back through to the engine.

G-force sensor pictured below.

You can start to lower the engine by undoing the main chassis securing bolts (E18).

There are 4 of them in the locations shown. Only lower the engine by about 1-1.5 inches at this stage.

Remove all of the attached hoses, these include the water transfer pipes, rear brake hoses, fuel lines, ABS sensor wires and air-con pipes.

The rear brake pipe requires a 15mm and a 13mm spanner.

The water transfer pipes are secured via Jubilee clips, the fuels lines are slide clips (blue in the picture, as standard they are black), and the air-con pipes are attached via a T40 torx bit.
Please remember to de-gas the system correctly.
Also pull through the lateral g-force sensor cable.

Continue to (slowly) undo the chassis bolts, until the engine is fully lowered, and remove the bolts.

Replace the Rear axle stands, with 1 jack securely located on the sub-frame/chassis mount.

Carefully wheel the engine out, it’s a very close fit and you have to manipulate the rear arches as the suspension assembly moves.
Ensure there are no further hoses/cables/wires attached to the car, and the whole sub-frame/chassis arrangement should now be free.